Cut or tumbled?
Popular gemstone cuts
Tolkowsky brilliant cut
Not only diamonds look brilliant with a brilliant cut. Therefore this cut is probably the most popular one.
There is more than one brilliant cut today. In Europe the Eppler brilliant cut is known, which is the standard in Germany. In Northern America the Tolkowsky brilliant cut is the standard. It was developed by Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919, who was a member of a diamond cutter family in Belgium. He did mathematical calculations on light reflections inside the cut to get the optimal cut to improve brilliance and fire of the diamond.
The result was the cut below, This cut has 57 facettes (58, if there is a culet, which was, like the girdle, not part of the original design) and the proportions are the following:
Diameter 100% (the reference), table 53%, pavillion 43.1%, crown 16.2%
Picture above copyright 2001-2005 by Jasper Paulsen under GNU Free Documentation license. The picture above was reformated for better fit.
Step cuts and mixed cuts
The classical step cut is the Emerald cut, but almost all shapes can be done in a step cut.
Also very popular are mixed cuts, like an oval cut, where the crown is done in brilliant cut and the pavillion in step cut. As mentioned before the Navette and the Pendeloque with pointed edges should to be set with care, especially when the cleavage of the stone is good or perfect (see characteristics)
Non-faceted cuts
Opaque stones with bright colours look very beautiful when cut to Cabochons, balls or many other shapes. They can then be set or get pierced for a necklace.
Tumbled
Raw stones of about the same size and hardness are filled into a drum with abrasive material and then tumble for a long time until the surface is smooth. The smoothness of the surface depends on the grit size of the abrasive material, so it makes sense to reduce the grit size for the final finish.
Tumbled stones are beautiful to look at and are the perfect filling for an indoor fountain. And they fit well in the hand, so tumbling is also perfect for power stones, that are used for healing or well being. Hold your favourite tumbled gemstone in hand during an online conference to stay energized and focused, it really works...
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